Luxor, decoded.
Get to know the temples, tombs and stories of Luxor. Find the details worth pausing for, plan a day at your own pace, and explore what comes next on the Nile.
Two banks, one city, many layers of history.
Select a place in the drawing or the list to open its guide.
THE WEST WAS ASSOCIATED WITH DEATH AND REBIRTH
WEST BANK — THE NECROPOLIS
TOMBS, MORTUARY TEMPLES, THE WORKMEN’S VILLAGE
EAST BANK — THE LIVING CITY
TEMPLES OF THE GODS, AND MODERN LUXOR
AVENUE OF SPHINXES · 2.7 KM
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| Site | Bank |
|---|---|
| VALLEY OF THE KINGS | West bank |
| DEIR EL-BAHARI | West bank |
| RAMESSEUM | West bank |
| MEDINET HABU | West bank |
| COLOSSI | West bank |
| LUXOR TEMPLE | East bank |
| KARNAK | East bank |
| THE NILE | — |
Schematic, not to scale. Karnak and Luxor Temple lie east of the Nile; the main royal cemeteries and funerary temples lie west. The setting sun helped give the west its funerary associations, but homes, farms and places of worship belonged on both banks.
East bank or west bank?How much time do you have?
Suggested routes with room for crossings, rest and a closer look. Check hours, access and weather before following them.
One day in Luxor
The west bank while it is cool, Karnak when the light softens.
2Two days in Luxor
A bank a day, with the hottest hours spent indoors.
3Three days in Luxor
The plan we would follow ourselves, and the one everything else is measured against.
4Four days in Luxor
The same three days, plus the hillside where ordinary life is painted.
5Slow Luxor
Five days, one or two sites a morning, and every afternoon your own.
LUXOR + NILELuxor and the Nile
Understand Thebes first, then leave it by water.
Practical questions, clear answers.
Eleven places to begin exploring Luxor.
Get to know each place before you go: who built it, what happened there and which details to look for. Suggested visit times help you decide how much to fit into your day.
Karnak Temple Complex
Two thousand years of building, rebuilding and royal ambition, gathered around the temples of Amun.
Luxor Temple
A temple of Amun in the heart of today’s city, shaped by royal ritual and the annual Opet festival.
Valley of the Kings
The royal burial landscape of the New Kingdom: rock-cut tombs tucked into a desert valley, separate from the kings’ major commemorative temples.
Temple of Hatshepsut
Terraces set straight into the cliff at Deir el-Bahari — and a reign that was later chiselled off its own walls.
One city, more than one ancient world.
The temples and tombs belong to different reigns and periods. The timeline helps you place each visit in the longer story of Thebes.
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| Site | Type | Built and in use | Continued in use, altered or reoccupied |
|---|---|---|---|
| Karnak Temple Complex | Temple complex | c.2000 BCE–100 CE | Not after antiquity |
| Luxor Temple | Temple | c.1400 BCE–0 CE | c.0–600 CE |
| Temple of Hatshepsut | Temple | c.1473–1458 BCE | Not after antiquity |
| Valley of the Kings | Necropolis | c.1539–1075 BCE | Not after antiquity |
| Deir el-Medina | Village | c.1550–1070 BCE | Not after antiquity |
| The Ramesseum | Temple | c.1290–1180 BCE | Not after antiquity |
| Medinet Habu | Temple | c.1190 BCE–0 CE | c.0–800 CE |
Solid = built and in use. Dashed = continued in use, altered or reoccupied. Conventional chronology; the axis is a shared scale, so the bars are comparable between sites.
Open the full timelineSmall details, bigger stories.
Three details from our site guides. Pause for each one and see what it adds to the story of the place.
- 01
The hall is carved two different ways
Great Hypostyle Hall — compare the north wall with the south
Compare raised relief, where figures stand above the background, with sunk relief, cut into the stone. Seti I’s decoration and Ramesses II’s work provide examples of both techniques; some of Ramesses II’s reliefs were recut from raised to sunk.
Karnak Temple ComplexThe different techniques and recut surfaces help distinguish phases of decoration. They do not, by themselves, establish a ruler’s motive for changing the work.
- 02
A name cut out of the wall
Throughout the temple; easiest to find on the middle-terrace colonnades, in the offering scenes
Clean, deliberate hollows where a figure or a name used to be — sometimes a neatly emptied oval where a cartouche (an oval frame containing a royal name) sat, sometimes a standing figure hacked back to its outline — with the scene around it left completely untouched.
Temple of HatshepsutFact — the erasure, and its thoroughness. Uncertain — the motive. Specialists disagree, and the evidence for when the work was done argues against the familiar personal explanation.
This was careful work, not vandalism. Whoever did it knew exactly what to remove and left everything else alone. That is what makes the motive worth arguing about — and the popular version, a jealous successor striking at once, is the reading the dating fits worst.
- 03
Colour survives exactly where the roof did
The roofed areas and the shaded, deep-cut reliefs — look up under the surviving ceilings
Medinet Habu keeps more original pigment than almost anywhere else in Thebes — and it is not evenly spread. Look up under the surviving ceilings and into the deep-cut reliefs. Three thousand years of sun did the rest.
Medinet HabuSurviving pigment helps you imagine a more colourful temple setting. It does not show that every surface elsewhere used the same colours or programme.
Our historical notes use evidence labels to separate established facts from interpretations, unresolved questions and tradition.
Find your kind of Nile journey.
Cruise ship, dahabiya or felucca: compare the space, pace and practical details. The full comparison also looks at smaller boutique cruise vessels.
Nile cruise ship
A larger vessel combining overnight cabins, shared facilities and a scheduled river itinerary. Compare the actual ship’s route, facilities and inclusions; the category alone does not guarantee a pool, guide or particular passenger capacity.
- Typical length
- Check the itinerary
- On board
- Varies by vessel
- Pace
- Scheduled
- Best for
- Travellers who prefer cabins, shared facilities and organised visits.
Dahabiya
A traditional two-masted sailing vessel adapted for a small group staying in cabins. Many itineraries connect Esna and Aswan, using sails and tug assistance as conditions require. Departure dates, stops and permissions still shape the journey.
- Typical length
- Check the itinerary
- On board
- Varies by vessel
- Pace
- Scheduled, weather-dependent
- Best for
- Travellers who enjoy a small group, shared meals and time on the river.
Felucca
An open sailing boat without overnight cabins, used for river outings and some longer trips. A short sail and a night sleeping on deck are different experiences: confirm the duration, facilities, support arrangements and route before booking.
- Typical length
- Short outings or overnight trips
- On board
- Varies by vessel
- Pace
- Wind and route dependent
- Best for
- Travellers who want an open-air river outing; overnight trips require separate preparation.
Read before your visit.
Before You Visit the Valley of the Kings
The Valley of the Kings is a royal burial ground with tombs that vary in route and decoration. Learn the difference between a burial chamber and funerary scenes, then choose a few tombs around your interests and access needs.
Reading Luxor Across the River
The Nile helps you read ancient Thebes: the great temples stand east of the river, while royal cemeteries and commemorative temples spread west. But “east for the living, west for the dead” leaves out the people who lived and worked on the west bank.
Choosing a Nile Journey: Cruise Ship, Dahabiya or Felucca?
Choose a cruise ship for cabins and a scheduled group itinerary, a dahabiya for a smaller cabin-based trip, or a felucca for time on an open sailing boat. Facilities and access depend on the actual vessel.
Opening hours, ticket prices and tomb access change. Published prices and hours carry an online source-check date where available. Field checks, current access and human editorial review remain separate; confirm arrangements before travelling.